Archive for the ‘Repairs & Replacements’ Category

Pretty has not been a consideration in fabricating the fork brace for my 1500 Goldwing. After all, the Upper Cover hides most all of the brace. In order to make the Upper Cover fit closer to original position I pulled the brace and secured it onto the milling table to recess the mounting bolts and prevent the upper cover from making contact with them. Because I lack a tilting machining vise (it’s on the want list) the upper edges of the brace were filed so the Upper Cover would fit better. The end result ain’t exactly pretty but I’ll let the pictures tell the story.

Top View Edit

This is the top side view of the brace from my previous post.

Top View Edit 01

This is the top side view of the brace as it is now.

Chrome Cover

This is the Upper Cover from last post. Notice how much of the brace is visible under the cover.

Chrome Cover 01

This is the Upper Cover as it bolts down now. Considerably less brace can be seen.

The brace not only got bolted onto the bike this afternoon but rain and threatening clouds moved off to the east just after supper. What good fortune, an opportunity for some two wheel therapy. It was only thirty odd miles but enough to know the metal removed had no effect on handling. Guess you can say I’m a happy camper.

Much has been learned during the fabrication of my brace. The extra piece of aluminum will be fabricated into a brace using what I learned making mine.

Pictures of the second brace in process will be posted. Someone will get the second one. Stay tuned.


For my 1500 Goldwing, adding rigidity and reducing fork flex seemed a few simple details: choosing proper material, precisely measuring distances between the fork fender mount flanges and machining the material to a snug fit between those flanges. Nothing to it! Right? Well, not quite because taking the measurements with the wheel and fender halves in place meant I needed measuring tools (divider, etc.) not in my arsenal. The good news was the local Harbor Freight had a kit with inside and outside tools and on sale at under $10. With those and my vernier calipers the measuring was no problem.

Fabricating the brace was straight forward. Securing the billet onto the milling table, snugging an end mill in place; then milling the billet to proper dimensions was basic and time consuming. In some ways that’s the lazy way of making something so basic but since I have the equipment, hey what the heck. You see I’ve used a Dremel tool and hand files to machine an outboard motor shift collar from a large brass nut. Yes it worked well until the drive shaft seal gave out and the lower unit filled with water.

There is a well known technology college in Minneapolis that has a highly regarded machining curriculum. Years ago when working in a sheet metal shop, the owners of the shop (brothers) had learned their machining skills there and told me the first machining project involved hand machining their chosen item using only a set of files.

I am including a few pictures of the brace as installed on my bike. There is one major difference in appearance between stock and forks with the brace installed: the “Front Fender Upper Cover” sits about ½” higher than stock position. This makes the bottom of the brace visible. I’m pretty confident it will not be possible to fit the Upper Cover to original position without degrading rigidity of the brace. But I do believe it possible to get it 50% closer and I’m willing to live with whatever of the brace is then visible. So the saga continues and pictures will be posted as I post project progress.

Bottom View Edit

Above is the bottom side of the brace.  It is machined to fit tightly between the fork fender mount flanges.  This one fits very tightly but if it hadn’t, shim stock would have been used to accomplish exactly the same fit.

Top View Edit

Recesses on each end are to accomodate the Front Fender Upper Cover.  To anyone that does some wrenching it is easy to see this piece has been bolted down and removed a number of times.  It’s the nature of what I’m doing with this project.

Chrome Cover

Pretty easy to see the bottom of the fork brace beneath the Front Fender Upper Cover.  I don’t know why digital photography makes a rather scratched up piece of aluminum look so bright white while making a piece of chromed plastic look so multi-colored.  Dog gone, I spent a lot of time scrubbing the splattered bug guts off that Upper Cover and look what I got for it.  Honestly though, the bugs looked much worse to the camera.


There are a few different fork braces available for the GL1500, none of which I have had the pleasure of affording or for that matter seeing up close enough to put micrometer and vernier calipers to work measuring. But everything I’ve read from people who have bought and installed them convinced me the Goldwing will handle better with such a brace. Considering finances, machining experience and machining equipment and tooling in my “men’s crisis center” (in other words garage) I decided to give machining my own fork brace a try.

Granted, those companies offering their CNC milled braces with choice of finishes have the corner on pretty compared to what I would make but pretty had little influence over what I was hoping to accomplish which was improved handling through reduced fork flex. The plan was to buy enough 5/8” X 2 1/2” 6061 T6 extruded Aluminum bar to make two braces because if there was a major screw up machining the first I’d have enough to [hopefully] do the second right.

Measurements were carefully made and recorded. The milling process started and about two hours later the body said it was enough for the day. Although I may often grumble about how frustrating it is to hit that wall where the body says “enough”, there are often rewards for heeding what the body says. Although the physical work stopped, the mind remained on task whether attending to on line tasks, eating a meal, conversing with the missus or even sleeping. Overlooked details, better ways of accomplishing tasks and even decisions about which method to use happened during these times. But those things ruminated over during sleep (you know, when you feel as though all night was devoted to project and none to sleep) seemed the most frustrating. In the end result the nuances got worked out and I ended up with a straight forward, no frills fork brace which is proving more satisfactory as I put on more miles.

The reason I say more satisfactory is because after riding several summers with only a stock setup I adapted to that and rode with added caution, so now I feel as though I’m unlearning and relearning. Low speed “fork stop” to “fork stop” turns didn’t happen because the bike didn’t feel stable enough. With my home made brace I’m OK doing those turns now. Putting the bike hard into turns likewise feels stable and more connected to the road. Quick back and forth maneuvers happen with a heightened sense of control and connection to the road. No, I can’t go down the road at 55MPH and dodge between the centerline dashes but then again I can’t claim I’ve ever owned a bike I could do that on. Let’s face it a Goldwing would be in the least likely category as I see it.

A few questions float around when I’ve attempted something such as this and find myself pleased with the results. They go pretty much as follows:

  1. Are there exotic design parameters and complex physical, mathematical and metallurgical considerations to be taken into account in order to limit flexing and improve handling?

  2. Assuming the answer to #1 is yes, what will be the difference in performance between a brace designed taking all that into consideration versus carefully machining a suitable aluminum alloy billet to provide stability and limit flexing?

  3. Is it possible the matter of providing a meaty piece of aluminum bolted between the fork tubes is the major factor and most everything else said by those manufacturing them is only sales pitch?

No, I honestly don’t know the answers but I have this gut feeling making something stronger that provides greater stability and reduced flexing requires minimal math, physics and metallurgical savvy. That’s my opinion, and we all know about opinions.

As explained earlier I bought enough 6061 T6 aluminum billet to make two braces in case I wrecked the first one. Since I didn’t wreck the first one I’m reasonably confident I won’t wreck a second one. Now what I want is a blatantly honest person to try this brace and give their findings. Preference would be someone that has one of the other braces on their bike so an objective comparison could be done. That is however, only my preference and will not be how I decide who gets to give it a try. Those details will be published within the next day or two.

OK, OK, I know it would be nice to have a couple of pictures. Two things: I lent my camera to a person with (as I’m learning) an amazing ability to be very slow returning things. Second, when the camera comes home I still need to spend the time taking the brace off my bike to take the pictures. This is riding season in North Dakota and I hate the idea of missing a riding opportunity because the bike is in some state of disassembly. But I will do it.

In the meantime, stay tuned.


My Goldwing misbehaved occasionally ever since spring of 2007. One early ride last year the bike felt as though it ran out of fuel. While it was still coasting I downshifted and popped the clutch and it started up and ran fine after that. That was it until my brother and I were leaving the Minneapolis area and intending on an extended road trip. The morning was a bit cool, hinting at fall’s nearness. We were on the western edge of the cities and it seemed to run out of gas again but didn’t completely stop so I explained what happened and we decided to continue on our way. What the heck, probably wouldn’t be able to diagnose the problem until the bike quit and refused to start anyway.

During the balance of that trip the bike misbehaved perhaps six to eight more times but always kept running and seemed to get it’s wind back. The fuel filter got replaced at one Honda dealership in Oklahoma. The owner claimed to know next to nothing about Goldwings because this was such a poor area and nobody could afford them around there. Turns out he sold lots of ATV’s but few motorcycles. Hmmmm, seems to me those ATV’s cost money too. Well the fuel filter didn’t fix it and we stopped at another dealership. The service manager took the bike out on the toll way and found nothing wrong with it up to 115 MPH. He suggested it could be the battery wasn’t able to keep up because of the extra load from the trailer lights (all LED lights on the trailer ) which sounded a little far fetched. But we hit a “Wallow World” and I replaced the battery. There was one more episode shortly after replacing the battery and all was good the rest of the trip, a thousand miles or more. I was thinking maybe the battery was the culprit.

The bike had been running like a champ this year and we took off with trailer in tow to attend the wedding of my nephew. Likewise it ran like a champ with mileage up to almost 42 MPG for part of the trip. Then came Saturday, on our way to the wedding and wouldn’t you know. I limped the bike into the country club parking lot and scurried in so as to not delay things any longer. Later it fired up and ran normal. The next day we returned home and there wasn’t a hiccup.

Now this is one of those things that really makes me go HMMMMM?

I spent some quality time searching my favorite online Goldwing resource and found a link to this well written “How To” detailing a reasonably inexpensive fix for what is regarded as one of the common causes of this problem. I found there could have been about a $10 saving on the pump ordering it on line but opted for having the pump right away and bought it and the filter screen locally along with a one foot piece of submersible 5/16” fuel line. My grand total came to just over $80 and I scurried home anxious to get the project underway.

The how to instructions were quite explicit and indeed as the article said the job could have been done in about 30 minutes. That is except I decided not to trust crimped on terminals and soldered them for the sake of having no unwanted surprises on the road. One other consideration is the submersible fuel line which some posted they were having trouble locating. If that proves to be a problem for you I recommend getting a 5/16” double barbed brass connector between two and three inches long, then cutting the original fuel line on the original fuel pump and simply adding in the brass to provide enough length so you can use the original fuel line. Along with the two extra clamps the problem should be very nicely solved.

Did this replacement fix my problem? I don’t know and for that matter hope I never know. A couple things I have noticed since completing the replacement:

  1. On cold start up I can bring the choke to full off position much sooner than before. A possible indication there was fuel starvation which doesn’t seem to exist now.

  2. Start up after the bike has been ridden and shut down for even 2 to 3 hours is quicker and no longer requires using the choke. Once again possible indication of a fuel starvation condition which no long exists.

  3. At highway cruising speeds the bike seems to run quieter. This could be my imagination but I don’t think so.

Like I say, I hope to never know if this fixed the problem simply because the problem will not have recurred. I can sure live with that.